Tom's Watches
Tom
is an avid watch collector. Below are details on some of the
watches that play supporting roles in The Double Eagle.
1956
Jaeger le Coultre - "Memovox"
Jaeger Le Coultre was established in 1833 in the Vallée
de Joux watch making region of Switzerland. They are highly
regarded for their quality timepieces, technical innovation,
and one of the most stringent and fanatical testing centres
in Switzerland. Even today, Jaeger Le Coultre are one of
the few elite Swiss watchmakers who manufacture their own
movements in-house rather than buy them in.
Jaeger Le Coultre have been especially instrumental in the
development of wrist alarms, and the 1956 Memovox was the
world's first automatic wrist alarm. As the picture above
shows, the dial appears to be two tone as the inner disc is
a revolving plate which allows the user to set the alarm indicating
pointer. The top crown winds the alarm and sets the alarm
activation time, whilst the bottom crown sets the hands and
winds up the watch.
In The Double Eagle, this is Tom's favourite watch, left
to him by his mother after her death in a car crash and the
piece which probably started his fascination with watches
(James himself owns a watch like this!)
1965 Rolex
- " 'Paul Newman' Daytona"
Rolex introduced their first chronograph models around 1937,
the watches designed to measure as well as tell the time with
a separate seconds hand which can be started, stopped and
reset to zero, via push buttons on the side of the case. These
watches featured Valjoux movements, and while they saw numerous
styles over the following decades, their success was somewhat
limited.
In 1961 Rolex released a chronograph that was quickly adopted
by the auto racing community, due to their usefulness when
calculating average lap speed. These models became known as
the Daytona after Daytona Beach, Florida, site of the famous
race track.
These first models were available in a number of dial configurations,
including what has become known as the exotic dials. These
exotic dial configurations were either black (with white registers),
or cream white (with black registers), and featured square
markers within the registers. These were nicknamed the Paul
Newman models, although how his name came to be associated
with them remains uncertain. One theory is that he wore one
in the cult 1969 Indy car racing film Winning. They remain
very collectible.
In The Double Eagle, Jennifer Brown first approaches
Tom when he is viewing this watch in a shop window in the
Piccadilly Arcade in London.
1934
Rolex - "Prince"
The Rolex "Prince", a revolutionary timepiece
that became the most accurate watch of it's day, represents
the pinnacle of the long, elegant, flared wristwatch.
Rolex designers discovered that if they put the balance wheel
and the mainspring barrel at opposite ends of the watch, then
they could use a larger mainspring and a larger balance wheel,
impossible in a round case where the parts are in closer proximity.
This change also allowed the watch to run for a longer period
of time on one winding and it provided for a balance wheel
that had more momentum. This momentum was aided by the use
of solid gold balance screws, another innovative idea that
added both value and quality.
The "Prince" was first introduced in 1928 and it
came in two models, the "Classic", and the "Brancard".
The "Brancard was always more expensive than the "Classic"
and likewise the stainless "Brancard" (introduced
in 1934) was about 10% more expensive than the Sterling Silver
model because it is more difficult to work steel than it is
silver.
In The Double Eagle, Jennifer Brown suggests that she
prefers this model to the Daytona he had been looking at.
She later gives him the watch as a gift.
1994
A. Lange & Söhne - "Tourbillon 'Pour le Mérite'
"
A. Lange & Söhne was first established in 1868 by
Aldoph Lange in the town of Glasshutte, Saxony. The firm soon
established itself as one of the world's leading makers of
distinctive timepieces. However, after the end of the Second
World War, the factory was seized by the German Socialist
Union and Walter Lange, the heir to the company, fled what
was then East Germany.
It was only after the German reunification in 1990,that
the founder's great grandson, also called Walter Lange,
began work to revive the company and today it has retaken
its place among the leading watchmakers of the world with
a reputation for handcrafted and innovative products.
The Tourbillon "Pour le Merite" was produced in
a limited edition of 150 examples in 18K gold in the 1990's,
with only 15 produced in 18K pink gold and is therefore very
rare and very collectable, despite its relative young age.
In The Double Eagle, Darius van Simson wears the rare
pink gold Tourbillon "Pour le Mérite".
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